![]() There is no question we golfers need to have our golf clubs built so that the amount of weight we feel in the clubhead is matched properly to our individual strength and our natural sense of swing tempo, timing and rhythm. Some golfers like to think of swingweight as an indication of how much they can feel the presence of the weight in the clubhead when they swing the club. It is not a standardized accepted weight/mass parameter like “grams”, “ounces”, or “pounds.” It is an expression that attempts to describe the ratio of the amount of weight in the bottom 2/3’s to the weight in the upper 1/3 of a golf club. That’s all well and good but just what is swingweight?įirst of all, it really is not an actual weight or an actual measurement of a weight or mass. C8, D1, D4 are examples of the letter/number designation which have been used to label the swingweight of golf clubs. On tubeless setups I run the lowest pressure I can get away with, without folding the tire over, which ends up being right around 40F/45R on the MXPs (I was around 295lbs last race season).One of the very first technical points a golfer learns about his equipment is the letter + number designation which describes the SWINGWEIGHT of the clubs. When I set tire pressure with tubes, I run the lowest I can get away with, without flatting which is around 40psi front/45 rear for CX tires. Grip and ride quality were still much improved, it just reminded me of my tubeless MTB conversions years ago before manufacturers started shipping tubeless tires with thicker sidewalls. Only gripe I had was that I had to run similar pressures to what I ran with tubes since the sidewalls were so thin on the MXPs (I'm also a certified clydesdale, YMMV). The mold builder dries in each ridge and makes an airtight seal to the rim wall.ĭidnt have a problem for the rest of the season. Solution was to break each bead, paint a line of latex mold builder onto the bead and reseat the beads. The bead locked into place easily but the ridges along the bead allowed air to leak down, resulting in a flat tire after just a few hours. Sealant was some homebrew stuff, most recent recipe on the MTBR open-source sealant thread. I raced half of the last season on tubeless MXPs installed on Pacenti TL28 rims. ![]() We've been using Maxxis Mud Wrestlers and Specialized 2bliss Triggers / Terras with excellent results, grip and handling even at low-20s psi. They'll start out fine, and eventually work loose and start leaking / burping sealant.Ĭlements all have a ridged / textured bead on their clincher tires, so we avoid them. Not to mention Clement have a very supple casing and a Kevlar / aramid bead that will stretch and deform over time. If it's not, then no amount of sealant or tight rim fit will guarantee you won't have problems, especially at lower pressures when cornering hard. If it's smooth with no burrs or mold marks, fine, knock yourself out, it should work (depends on rim of course but the smoother the bead, the better). We stick to using their sewups and look elsewhere for tubeless clinchers.Ī pro wheel guy at the shop whose advice I trust told me this: regardless of what tire you're considering using for a tubeless conversion, look closely at the tire bead. Stans does not recommend them for starters. We did not elect to convert our Clements to tubeless for CX even tho we have them as a sponsor. I've heard mixed advice about Clement and tubeless.
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